Bacalhau: Portugal's Salt Cod and the Dishes to Try

Bacalhau, dried and salted cod, is Portugal’s national obsession. Locals say there are 365 ways to cook it, one for every day of the year, and it’s the centrepiece of Christmas Eve dinner. Funny, then, that the cod comes from the cold waters of the North Atlantic, not Portugal. Here’s a guide to bacalhau and the dishes you have to try.

Quick answer: try bacalhau à Brás (shredded cod with egg, onion and matchstick fries), pastéis de bacalhau (cod fritters), bacalhau com natas (baked with cream), bacalhau à Lagareiro (roasted with olive oil and potatoes) and bacalhau à Gomes de Sá from Porto.

Why salt cod?

Portuguese fishermen sailed to Newfoundland and beyond for centuries to catch cod, salting and drying it to survive the long voyages home. Salted cod kept without refrigeration and became a staple for Catholic meat-free days. Today, most bacalhau is imported from Norway and Iceland, but the cooking traditions are pure Portuguese. In Viana do Castelo you can visit the Gil Eannes, a hospital ship that supported the cod fleet. See Viana do Castelo.

The dishes to try

• Bacalhau à Brás: shredded cod scrambled with eggs, onions and thin fried potatoes, topped with olives and parsley. Lisbon’s favourite.
• Pastéis (or bolinhos) de bacalhau: crispy cod and potato fritters, sold in every café and pastry shop.
• Bacalhau com natas: baked with cream, onions and potatoes, like a rich gratin.
• Bacalhau à Lagareiro: a thick piece of cod roasted with lots of olive oil, garlic and small “punched” potatoes.
• Bacalhau à Gomes de Sá: a Porto classic of flaked cod baked with potatoes, onions, eggs and olives.
• Bacalhau à Zé do Pipo: baked with mashed potato and mayonnaise, another Porto favourite.
• Pataniscas de bacalhau: cod fritters in batter, often with rice and beans.
• Bacalhau cozido: simply boiled with potatoes, cabbage and eggs, drizzled with olive oil: the Christmas Eve dish.

Christmas Eve

The Consoada, the family dinner on 24 December, traditionally centres on boiled bacalhau with potatoes, cabbage and eggs. See Christmas in Portugal.

Buying and cooking it

• In the shops: you’ll see whole stiff, salted cod stacked in supermarkets and grocers. Some sell it already soaked.
• Soaking: it needs to soak in cold water for one to three days (changing the water often) to remove the salt.
• Taking it home: dried cod travels well in checked luggage, but check your country’s import rules.

What to drink

A glass of white wine or vinho verde, or a full-bodied red with the richer baked dishes.

More: what to eat in Portugal and Portuguese seafood.

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