Costa Vicentina: Wild Beaches and the Fishermen's Trail

Portugal’s wild southwest coast is the opposite of the resort Algarve: towering cliffs, empty golden beaches, surf villages and storks nesting on sea stacks. The Costa Vicentina runs north from Cape St Vincent into the Alentejo, protected as a natural park, with one of Europe’s most beautiful long-distance walks along the clifftops. Here’s how to explore it.

Quick answer: hire a car and base yourself in Aljezur, Odeceixe or Vila Nova de Milfontes. Don’t miss the beaches of Odeceixe, Amoreira, Arrifana and Bordeira, and walk a stretch of the Fishermen’s Trail. The Atlantic here is cold and powerful, so swim only at lifeguarded beaches. It’s best from May to October.

Where is the Costa Vicentina?

The coast of the Southwest Alentejo and Vicentine Coast Natural Park stretches about 100km from Burgau and Cape St Vincent in the Algarve north to São Torpes, near Sines. Strict protection means low-key villages, no high-rise hotels and lots of untouched coastline.

Getting there and around

• By car (best): Aljezur is about 30 minutes from Lagos, 1h15 from Faro airport and 2h30 from Lisbon. A car lets you hop between beaches. See our car rental guide.
• By bus: buses link Lagos, Aljezur, Odeceixe and Milfontes, and Lisbon to the Alentejo coast, but services are infrequent, especially out of season.
• On foot: the Rota Vicentina trails, with luggage transfers available from local companies.

The best beaches

Algarve side

• Praia do Castelejo and Cordoama: huge beaches below dark cliffs near Vila do Bispo. Wild and dramatic.
• Praia do Amado: a classic surf beach with surf schools and a relaxed vibe.
• Praia da Bordeira: a vast beach with a river lagoon and wooden boardwalks over the dunes from Carrapateira.
• Praia da Arrifana: a curving bay under high cliffs with a ruined fort on top. One of the best places to learn to surf in Portugal.
• Monte Clérigo: a family-friendly beach with a little village of colourful houses.
• Praia da Amoreira: where a river meets the sea between green hills. Calm river water for kids, waves for everyone else.
• Odeceixe: the most famous, where the Seixe river snakes around a sandbank into the ocean. Gorgeous from the viewpoint above.

Alentejo side

• Zambujeira do Mar: a clifftop village with a beach below and a lively summer music festival.
• Cabo Sardão: a lighthouse on the cliffs, famous for the white storks that nest on the sea stacks, the only place in the world they do so.
• Vila Nova de Milfontes: a pretty town where the Mira river meets the sea, with calm river beaches and ocean beaches.
• Porto Covo: a whitewashed fishing village with little coves, and Pessegueiro island just offshore.

The Rota Vicentina

A 750km network of waymarked walking trails, run by a local association, stretching from Santiago do Cacém to Cape St Vincent and Lagos. There are no permits or fees (donations are welcome).

• The Fishermen’s Trail: the star route, about 226km in 13 stages from São Torpes to Lagos, following the paths fishermen use to reach the beaches and fishing spots along the clifftops. Stages are mostly 15–20km, often on soft sand, which is harder than it looks. Stunning the whole way.
• The Historical Way: an inland route through villages, cork forests and farmland. Easier underfoot, and good for cyclists too.
• Circular walks: shorter loops from many villages if you just want a half-day hike.

Spring (March to May) is the best time to walk, with wildflowers and cooler temperatures. Summer is hot and exposed. Carry plenty of water, keep away from cliff edges and check the Rota Vicentina website for the latest trail conditions.

Surfing

This coast has waves all year. Arrifana, Amado, Monte Clérigo and Bordeira have surf schools offering lessons and board hire for all levels, and there are plenty of surf camps around Aljezur and Sagres.

Where to stay

• Aljezur: central for the best Algarve-side beaches, with a castle above the old town.
• Odeceixe: a charming village on the border between the Algarve and Alentejo.
• Vila Nova de Milfontes: the liveliest base on the Alentejo side, with lots of restaurants.
• Porto Covo: small and peaceful at the northern end.
• Sagres: surf town at the southern tip.

Safety

• Respect the ocean. Strong currents and big waves are common. Swim between the flags at lifeguarded beaches (usually June to mid-September).
• Stay back from cliff edges. They can crumble without warning.
• The water is cold, even in summer (often 17–20°C). A wetsuit helps for surfing.
• Don’t leave valuables in the car at beach car parks.

Food

Fresh fish and seafood, especially percebes (goose barnacles), harvested on these very cliffs. Aljezur is famous for its sweet potatoes (batata-doce), celebrated with a festival in late November.

More of the south

Combine the coast with Lagos and the western Algarve and the best Algarve beaches, or head inland to Évora and the Alentejo.

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