Trip guides / Lisbon
Pasteis de Belem: Queue Tips, Prices and History
Pastéis de Belém is the bakery where Lisbon’s custard tart began: a blue-tiled shop on Rua de Belém, a few minutes from the Jerónimos Monastery, baking to the same secret recipe since 1837. Here’s the story, the 2026 prices and hours, and how to beat the line.
Quick answer: it’s open every day from 8am to 9pm (10pm from July to September), Mondays included. A tart costs €1.60 and a box of six €9.60. The line outside is for takeaway: to eat in, walk straight inside and find a table in the tiled rooms at the back. Go at 8am or in the evening for the shortest waits.

The story: from monastery to bakery
In the early 19th century, next to the Jerónimos Monastery, stood a sugar cane refinery with a small general store attached. After the liberal revolution of 1820, Portugal closed all its convents and monasteries in 1834 and sent the monks away. According to the bakery’s own history, someone from the monastery began selling sweet pastries in that store, and they soon became known as pastéis de Belém.
In 1837 baking began in buildings attached to the refinery, following the monastery’s recipe. The founders’ descendants, now the fifth generation, still run it. Every day the master bakers make the custard and pastry in the Oficina do Segredo, the “secret workshop”, and only a handful of people know the formula, all bound by confidentiality agreements. The bakery turns out about 20,000 to 25,000 tarts a day.
Why “pastel de Belém” and not “pastel de nata”?
It’s the same kind of tart, but the name is protected: only this bakery can sell pastéis de Belém, and this shop is the only place they’re made. Everyone else sells pastéis de nata. TasteAtlas rated the pastel de Belém the world’s best traditional dessert in its 2025/26 awards, but the Portuguese still argue about who makes the best nata.
Prices in 2026
| Item | Price |
|---|---|
| Pastel de Belém | €1.60 |
| Box of six | €9.60 |
| Espresso (bica) | €1.20 |
| Galão or meia de leite | €1.70 |
| Fresh orange juice | €4 |
Prices are from the official menu (October 2026), which has no separate table prices. A box costs the same as six single tarts.
Opening hours
- October to June: daily, 8am to 9pm.
- 1 July to 30 September: daily, 8am to 10pm.
- 24, 25 and 31 December and 1 January: closes at 7pm.
The queue: takeaway or sit inside?
The takeaway line
The line on the pavement is for takeaway. At busy times it can stretch along Rua de Belém, but it usually moves faster than it looks, and in 2025 the bakery added a second takeaway counter.
The table-service trick
To eat there, skip the line and walk in. The bakery is far bigger than it looks from the street: a run of tiled rooms leads back from the counter, and tables turn over quickly. Grab a free table and a waiter takes your order. On the way, you can often watch the bakers through glass panels.
Best times to go
- Early: 8am to about 9:30am, before the tour groups.
- Evening: after about 6pm, when the day-trippers have gone.
- Busiest: late morning to mid-afternoon, especially at weekends and from June to September.
Early on a weekday you may walk straight up to the counter. On a summer weekend afternoon expect a long takeaway wait, while a table inside usually comes sooner.
What to order
- Pastéis de Belém: warm, and at least two. Add cinnamon (canela) and icing sugar from the shakers on the table; takeaway boxes usually come with small sachets.
- Coffee: a bica (espresso), or a galão, milky coffee in a tall glass. See our Portuguese coffee guide.
- Other cakes: bolo de arroz, travesseiros, toucinho do céu (an almond and egg cake), gluten-free mini cakes and, at Christmas, bolo-rei. See Portuguese desserts.
- Savoury: codfish cakes (pastéis de bacalhau), croquettes and a duck and spinach pie make a light lunch.
Taking a box home
The tarts are best on the day they’re baked, while the pastry is crisp, but they survive a short flight. Carry the box flat in your hand luggage. To revive them, use a hot oven for a few minutes, not the microwave, which makes the pastry soggy.
Is it worth it?
Yes, at least once: it’s a piece of Lisbon history, the tarts come out warm all day, and €1.60 is still cheap. The downside is the crowds at peak times. If the line is too much, Manteigaria has two shops on the same street (Rua de Belém 31 and 100, both 8am to 9pm), so you can compare styles. For the citywide ranking, including Aloma, the official contest winner three years running, see the best pastel de nata in Lisbon.
Make your own: the Belém recipe stays secret, but a hands-on class shows you how a nata is made, from rolling the pastry to filling the tins. See pastel de nata classes, or read our guide to nata cooking classes.
Combine it with Belém’s sights
- Jerónimos Monastery: a three-minute walk. The church is free and the cloister €18; closed Mondays.
- Belém Tower: about 15 to 20 minutes on foot. It reopened on 27 May 2026 with timed tickets (€15); closed Mondays.
- MAAT: about 15 to 20 minutes east along the river. €16 for visitors from abroad, free roof walk, usually closed Tuesdays.
Getting there: tram 15E from Praça da Figueira or Cais do Sodré (about 25 minutes), or the Cascais line train from Cais do Sodré to Belém (about 7 minutes), then a short walk. For a full day plan, see our Belém guide.
FAQ
How much is a pastel de Belém in 2026?
€1.60 each, or €9.60 for a box of six. An espresso costs €1.20.
Is Pastéis de Belém open on Mondays?
Yes. It opens every day from 8am to 9pm, until 10pm from 1 July to 30 September, and closes at 7pm on 24, 25 and 31 December and 1 January.
How do you skip the queue at Pastéis de Belém?
The line outside is for takeaway. To eat in, walk inside and find a free table in the back rooms, where a waiter serves you. Or arrive at 8am or in the evening.
Can you buy pastéis de Belém anywhere else?
No. The bakery on Rua de Belém is the only place they’re made and sold, and it has said it has no plans to open other shops.
More: what to eat in Lisbon and Lisbon food markets.
See also: the best pastel de nata in Lisbon, a day in Belém and the Jerónimos Monastery guide.
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