Peneda-Geres National Park: Waterfalls, Villages and Hikes

Peneda-Gerês is Portugal’s only national park, and a completely different side of the country: granite mountains, oak forests, waterfalls and emerald river pools, stone villages with ancient granaries, and wild horses grazing by the road. It’s about 1h30 from Porto and perfect for a few days of hiking, swimming and slow countryside life.

Quick answer: you really need a car. Base yourself in Gerês (Caldas do Gerês) or the villages of Soajo or Lindoso. Don’t miss the Arado and Portela do Homem waterfalls, the stone espigueiros of Soajo and Lindoso, and a swim in a river pool. In summer, a small €1.50 vehicle fee applies on the Mata da Albergaria forest road.

About the park

Created in 1971, the park stretches along the Spanish border in Portugal’s far north. It covers four mountain ranges (Peneda, Soajo, Amarela and Gerês) and is home to wolves, roe deer, golden eagles and the semi-wild garrano ponies, plus traditional villages where farming hasn’t changed much in centuries.

Getting there and around

• By car: about 1h30 from Porto and 45 minutes from Braga. Mountain roads are narrow and winding, so allow plenty of time. See driving in Portugal.
• By bus: limited buses run from Braga to Gerês village, but you won’t reach most sights without a car.
• On a tour: day tours from Porto handle the driving and include waterfalls and villages. See Peneda-Gerês tours.

Where to stay

• Gerês (Caldas do Gerês): an old spa town with the most hotels and restaurants, and close to the best-known waterfalls.
• Soajo and Lindoso: stone villages in the north of the park. Great for rural houses and a quieter stay.
• Lakeside: the shores of the Canicçada reservoir have lovely hotels and villas with views.

See places to stay in Gerês. Book ahead for summer weekends, when the park fills with Portuguese families.

Best things to see

Waterfalls and river pools

• Cascata do Arado: a series of cascades tumbling down a granite slope, with a viewpoint and pools above.
• Portela do Homem: a waterfall and crystal-clear pool right by the old Spanish border post. Very popular, so arrive early. Don’t park on the bridge (fines are steep).
• Pitões das Júnias: a remote village with a ruined medieval monastery and a beautiful waterfall in a gorge, reached on a short trail.
• Sete Lagoas and Tahiti waterfall (Fecha de Barjas): stunning but slippery. Take great care, as there are accidents every summer.

Mata da Albergaria and the Roman road

An ancient oak forest crossed by the Geira, a Roman road with original milestones still standing beside it. In summer a vehicle fee of €1.50 per day applies to drive through it, with toll points at the entrances. The money goes to looking after the forest and trails.

Soajo and Lindoso espigueiros

Groups of stone granaries raised on stilts, topped with crosses, used for centuries to dry corn away from rodents. Soajo’s cluster on a granite outcrop and Lindoso’s, below its castle, are two of the most photogenic sights in northern Portugal.

Viewpoints

Pedra Bela and the drive around the Canicçada reservoir give big views over the mountains and lakes.

Hiking

The park has many marked trails (trilhos), from short walks to waterfalls to full-day mountain hikes. Some longer routes in protected areas have restrictions or require a guide, so check with the park visitor centres before setting off. Bring water, good shoes and a map, and don’t rely on phone signal.

Responsible visiting

• Stay on the trails and don’t feed the horses or cattle.
• No fires and no wild camping: use official campsites.
• Take your rubbish home.
• Check fire risk warnings in summer, when some areas may be closed.

When to go

Late spring (May and June) for green hills, flowers and full waterfalls. Summer for swimming, but expect crowds at weekends. Autumn for beautiful colours. Winter is cold, wet and quiet, with snow on the high peaks.

Food

Hearty mountain cooking: cabrito (roast kid), Barrosã beef, smoked sausages, river trout and corn bread, with a glass of vinho verde.

More from the north

Combine the park with Braga and Guimarães, the Douro Valley, or see the best day trips from Porto.

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