Portuguese Cheese: Serra da Estrela, Azeitao and More

Portugal makes some superb cheeses, mostly from sheep’s and goat’s milk, and most visitors never hear about them. From the spoonable Serra da Estrela to the peppery São Jorge from the Azores, here’s a guide to Portuguese cheese and where to try it.

Quick answer: try Queijo Serra da Estrela (a soft, buttery sheep’s cheese you eat with a spoon), Azeitão (a creamy cheese from near Setúbal), São Jorge (a sharp, firm cow’s cheese from the Azores), Nisa and Évora from the Alentejo, and fresh queijo fresco. Order a tábua de queijos (cheese board) with a glass of wine.

The famous cheeses

Queijo Serra da Estrela

Portugal’s most famous cheese, made from raw sheep’s milk in the Serra da Estrela mountains and curdled with thistle flower instead of animal rennet. When ripe, it’s so soft you cut off the top and scoop it out with a spoon. Best in winter and spring. See Serra da Estrela.

Azeitão

A small, creamy sheep’s cheese from the Arrábida area, also made with thistle. Rich and slightly tangy. See Setúbal and Arrábida.

São Jorge

A firm, spicy cow’s milk cheese from the Azores island of São Jorge, aged for months. Great with a glass of red. See Azores island hopping.

Nisa

A semi-hard sheep’s cheese from the Alentejo, with a full, slightly acidic flavour.

Queijo de Évora

Small, hard, intensely flavoured sheep’s cheeses from the Alentejo, often eaten as a snack with bread and wine.

Queijo da Ilha and the Azores

The Azores produce lots of excellent cow’s milk cheeses, thanks to their green pastures.

Queijo fresco and requeijão

Fresh, mild cheeses, often served as a starter with salt and olive oil, or with pumpkin jam for dessert.

How to eat it

• As a starter: often part of the couvert (remember it isn’t free).
• On a cheese board with bread, olives and charcuterie.
• With jam: try cheese with pumpkin or quince jam (marmelada).
• In a sandwich: Serra da Estrela cheese melting into a pork sandwich at Casa Guedes in Porto. See what to eat in Porto.
• With wine: a red from the Dão or Alentejo, or a tawny port. See Portugal’s wine regions.

Where to buy and taste

• Markets: Mercado do Bolhão in Porto and the neighbourhood markets in Lisbon. See Lisbon food markets.
• Delis and wine bars in Lisbon and Porto.
• Food tours usually include a cheese tasting. See food tours.
• Taking it home: vacuum-packed cheeses travel well; check your country’s rules on dairy.

More: what to eat in Portugal and the best souvenirs.

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