The Coa Valley Rock Art: How to Visit

In the Côa Valley, in the upper Douro, thousands of prehistoric engravings of horses, aurochs and ibex are carved into the rocks in the open air. It’s one of the most important Palaeolithic rock art sites in the world, and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Here’s how to visit.

Quick answer: start at the Côa Museum near Vila Nova de Foz Côa, then join a guided tour (usually in a 4x4) to one of the rock art sites, such as Canada do Inferno, Penascosa or Ribeira de Piscos. Book ahead. Night tours at Penascosa use lamplight to reveal the engravings. It’s about 2.5 hours from Porto.

Why go

Most Ice Age art in Europe is hidden in caves. Here it sits on open rock faces by the river, in the same landscape the hunters saw. Once your eyes adjust, you start to pick out animals scratched and pecked into the schist, some overlapping, some drawn with several heads to suggest movement. It’s a rare chance to see art this old outdoors, in a wild and beautiful valley.

About the site

An archaeologist working on a planned dam first identified engraved rocks here in late 1991, and the find was made public in 1994. After a national campaign, work on the dam stopped in 1995 and the project was dropped the following year to save the art. The site became a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1998, and in 2010 the listing was extended to include Siega Verde, just across the border in Spain. Most engravings date back tens of thousands of years, to the Upper Palaeolithic, with later art from other periods too.

How to visit

• The museum: the Côa Museum opened in 2010 in a striking concrete building above the river near Vila Nova de Foz Côa. It explains the art, how it was dated and the people who made it, and the views from the terrace are superb. Allow 1.5 to 2 hours. It’s usually closed on Mondays from November to March.
• Guided visits: sites can only be visited with official guides, in small groups, in all-terrain vehicles followed by a short walk. Tours to Canada do Inferno and Ribeira de Piscos leave from the museum. Tours to Penascosa leave from the reception centre in the village of Castelo Melhor.
• Which site: Penascosa has the easiest, shortest walk. Canada do Inferno is moderate, with steps. Ribeira de Piscos has the longest, most uneven path and isn’t suitable if you have trouble walking.
• Timing: Canada do Inferno and Ribeira de Piscos are visited in the morning for the best light, and Penascosa in the afternoon. You can’t fit more than two sites into one day.
• Night visits: only at Penascosa, where low-angled lamplight makes the faint carvings stand out.
• Booking: book by phone or email through the official Arte-Côa website, giving your date, site and group size. There’s a fee per site and per person, so check the current price when you book.

Getting there

• By car: Vila Nova de Foz Côa is about 200km from Porto, usually around 2.5 hours via the A4 and IP2. A car is by far the easiest option, as the sites are spread out.
• By train: the Douro line from Porto ends at Pocinho, a short taxi ride from Vila Nova de Foz Côa. Arrange the taxi in advance. See day trips from Porto by train.

How long to spend

Plan a full day, or better, a night in the area. A good day: a morning tour to Canada do Inferno from the museum, then the museum itself and lunch in Vila Nova de Foz Côa, followed by an afternoon tour of Penascosa from Castelo Melhor.

Food

This is almond, olive and wine country. Try local olive oil, sugared almonds and the strong red wines of the Douro Superior. Village restaurants serve hearty Trás-os-Montes and Beira food, such as roast meats and cured sausages.

When to go

• Late February and March: the almond trees blossom across the upper Douro.
• Spring and autumn: the most comfortable temperatures for the walks.
• Summer: very hot. Book morning visits and bring a hat, water and sun cream.
• Winter: quiet, but bring a raincoat.

Nearby

• The upper Douro: vineyards, almond blossom in late winter and the end of the Douro railway line at Pocinho. See the Douro itinerary.
• Castelo Rodrigo: a historic hilltop village. See the historic villages.

Where to stay

Stay in a Douro quinta. Casa do Rio is close by. See where to stay in the Douro Valley or browse Douro stays.

More: UNESCO sites in Portugal and the Douro in winter.

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