Ilha Deserta: Faro's Desert Island

Ilha Deserta (officially Ilha da Barreta) is the southernmost point of mainland Portugal: a long, car-free barrier island in the Ria Formosa, with empty beaches, dunes and a boardwalk. It’s a short boat ride from Faro and feels like a castaway escape.

Quick answer: take a ferry from Faro (about 45 minutes; check current fares when you book). Walk the boardwalk across the island, swim from the long ocean beach, and have lunch at the island’s restaurant (book in summer). Bring water and sun protection, as there’s little shade.

Why go

Most Algarve beaches have a town behind them. Ilha Deserta has nothing but sand, dunes and lagoon. There are no roads, no houses and no hotels, just a ferry pier, a single restaurant and a long wooden walkway. That is the whole point. Even in August you can walk ten minutes along the shore and find space to yourself. The boat trip through the channels of the Ria Formosa is part of the fun, with birds, oyster beds and fishing boats along the way.

Things to do

• The beach: miles of quiet sand facing the Atlantic. The ocean side has clean, fine sand and clear water. Walk away from the pier to find the emptiest stretches.
• The boardwalk: a nature trail through the dunes, with information about plants and birds. It runs across the island and along it, and you can walk as much or as little as you like.
• Cabo de Santa Maria: the southernmost point of mainland Portugal. The walk there from the pier is a little over 3 km each way along the boardwalk and sand, so allow at least two hours for the round trip with stops.
• Seafood lunch at the island restaurant, which looks over the sea. It is the only place to eat, so book ahead in summer.
• Birdwatching on the lagoon side. Look for egrets, herons, waders and gulls on the mudflats, especially at low tide.

Getting there

Ferries and boat tours leave from Faro’s waterfront near the old town. Check return times carefully, as services are limited outside summer. See ferries in Portugal and Ria Formosa tours.

• The ferry: the regular service is run by the island’s operator, Animaris, from the piers beside Faro’s old town walls. Check the boarding point when you book. The crossing takes about 45 minutes. In summer there are several boats a day, and fewer in the low season.
• Booking: book online in advance, especially in July and August, and buy a return. Fares change by season, so check the current price.
• Boat tours: some Ria Formosa tours stop at the island as part of a longer trip. These cost more but add a guide and other stops.
• Getting to the pier: it is a short walk from Faro’s marina and the old town. Faro train and bus stations are about 10 minutes away on foot.

How long to spend

Most people spend a half day or a full day. A relaxed day might look like this:

• Morning: catch one of the first boats from Faro.
• Late morning: walk the boardwalk and swim.
• Lunch: seafood at the restaurant.
• Afternoon: walk to Cabo de Santa Maria or just lie on the beach, then take a late afternoon boat back.
• Evening: dinner in Faro’s old town.

Food

There is only one restaurant on the island, so plan around it or bring a picnic. Menus focus on what the Ria Formosa does best:

• Clams and oysters from the lagoon.
• Grilled fish and seafood rice.
• Cold white wine or vinho verde with the sea view.

See the seafood guide for what to order.

When to go

• June and September: warm sea, long days and fewer people.
• July and August: the busiest months, so book the ferry and lunch early.
• Spring and autumn: good for walking and birdwatching, with cooler air.
• Winter: the boat runs less often and the restaurant may keep shorter hours. Check before you go.

Tips

• Bring: water, snacks, sunscreen and an umbrella. There is almost no natural shade.
• Protected area: stay on the boardwalk in the dunes.
• Last boat: note the time of the last ferry back and be at the pier early.
• Wind: afternoon breezes can be strong, so a light layer helps on the boat.
• Combine with Faro’s old town. See Faro.

More: the Ria Formosa Natural Park and Portugal’s hidden gems.

Some links in this guide are affiliate links (GetYourGuide, Booking.com, Discover Cars). If you book through them we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. It helps keep our groups and this site free.