Levada do Rei (PR18), Madeira: Walk Guide

Levada do Rei, the PR18, is a quiet forest walk on Madeira’s green north coast. From Quebradas, near the village of São Jorge, an almost level path follows an old water channel past farm terraces and into the laurel forest, ending at Ribeiro Bonito, where the levada begins. Here’s how to plan it in 2026.

Quick answer: start at the water treatment station at Quebradas in São Jorge, just west of Santana. It’s 5.3km each way (10.6km return) on a nearly flat path, and the official time is 3 hours 30 minutes. PR18 is open. Book a slot and pay €4.50 on SIMplifica (12 and under free). It’s a quieter alternative to Caldeirão Verde.

The trail at a glance

• Distance and time: 5.3km each way, 10.6km return. Visit Madeira and the IFCN trail board give 3 hours 30 minutes.
• Height: about 535m to 578m, so it’s almost flat.
• Difficulty: rated moderate, as the trail board warns of slippery ground and stretches that may trouble anyone with vertigo.
• Start: the water treatment station (ETA) at Quebradas, about 2km as the crow flies from São Jorge church.

Is PR18 open in 2026?

Yes. IFCN, the regional forestry institute, lists PR18 as open (status page updated 2 October 2026). A rockfall closed it from 13 March to 17 April 2026, when it reopened after clearing work and new railings. Heavy rain can close trails at short notice, so check the IFCN list the day before.

Booking and fees

• Book a slot: every IFCN trail needs a 30-minute start slot, booked and paid by card on the SIMplifica portal (simplifica.madeira.gov.pt).
• Fee: €4.50 per person over 12. Children 12 and under are free but still need a slot.
• Two trails in a day: the system applies the €9 one-day rate automatically (PR1 excluded).
• Refunds: only if IFCN closes the trail.

Getting to Quebradas

• By car: Santana is about 45 minutes to an hour from Funchal through the tunnels, and São Jorge is a short drive further west. Visit Madeira lists no car park at the trailhead, so arrive early and keep gates and passing places clear.
• By bus: CAM routes 850, 802 and 875 run on past Santana to São Jorge. On the current SIGA timetable, the only morning arrival from Funchal is the 7:30am 850 at weekends and on holidays, reaching São Jorge at about 10am. On weekdays, take a morning 801 to Santana and a taxi from there.
• Getting back: buses to Funchal leave São Jorge at about 4:50pm every day. The trailhead is a fair way from the village, so allow time or book a taxi.

Rather not drive? See guided levada walks from Funchal, and check whether Levada do Rei and the trail fee are included. Compare options in the best Madeira tours.

The walk step by step

1. Farms and forest: from the water treatment station, the first part mixes native and introduced trees, with views over the terraces of São Jorge and Santana. In places the trees close over the path like a tunnel.
2. The laurel forest: further in, it turns into dense Laurisilva, the native laurel forest UNESCO listed as World Natural Heritage in 1999.
3. Narrow stretches: some parts run beside drops. Keep to the inside of the path.
4. Ribeiro Bonito: the path ends where the levada starts, in an isolated corner of dense forest. Expect a small waterfall rather than a big show: the trail board pictures one beside the levada, and its flow depends on recent rain. Walk back the same way.

The São Jorge watermill

On the way back, the trail board suggests the watermill at Achadinha, between the trailhead and the village. Over 300 years old, it’s the island’s last working watermill, says Visit Madeira, still turned by the Levada do Rei. No opening hours are published, so treat it as a bonus.

Levada do Rei or Caldeirão Verde?

Caldeirão Verde (PR9) is longer, about 13km return and 4 to 5 hours, with four dark tunnels and a tall waterfall, and its car park often fills by mid-morning. Levada do Rei is shorter, lower and gentler, and its official descriptions mention no rock tunnels. It’s usually quieter, and a good choice when the higher trails are in cloud.

Best time and what to bring

• Season: year-round, but the north is wetter than Funchal, with more winter closures. See the best time to visit Madeira.
• Start early: for a quieter path and time to spare before the last bus.
• Pack: shoes with good grip, a rain jacket, water, food and your booking saved on your phone. In an emergency, call 112.

Combining it with Santana and São Jorge

In Santana, the thatched A-frame houses next to the town hall are free to visit. Around São Jorge:

• São Jorge church: 17th century, and the largest baroque church in Madeira.
• Cabo Aéreo viewpoint: at Arco de São Jorge, looking down on Calhau de São Jorge.
• Beira da Quinta viewpoint: at 469m, looking along the north-west coast and, on clear days, to Porto Santo.

On the mountain road from Funchal, the Vereda dos Balcões at Ribeiro Frio is a short add-on at the €9 day rate.

FAQ

How long is the Levada do Rei walk?

It’s 10.6km return, and the official time is 3 hours 30 minutes.

Is Levada do Rei open?

Yes, on the IFCN list updated 2 October 2026. A rockfall closed it from 13 March to 17 April 2026, so check the day before.

Do you need to book Levada do Rei?

Yes: a SIMplifica slot and €4.50 per person over 12. Children 12 and under are free but still need a slot.

Can you get to Levada do Rei by bus?

Easily only at weekends, on the 7:30am 850 from Funchal. On weekdays, take the 801 to Santana and a taxi. The last bus back leaves about 4:50pm.

More: Madeira levada walks, getting around Madeira and the Madeira travel guide.

See also: the 25 Fontes levada, hiking in Portugal and where to stay in Madeira.

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