Where to Stay in Obidos

Most visitors see Óbidos on a day trip, but staying the night inside the medieval walls is magical: once the tour buses leave, you have the lanes, the walls and the sunset almost to yourself. Here’s where to stay in Óbidos and nearby.

Quick answer: for an unforgettable stay, sleep in the castle at the Pousada Castelo Óbidos. For a boutique stay inside the walls, Casa das Senhoras Rainhas. For golf, a spa and the coast, Evolutee Hotel at Royal Óbidos. Nearby, Foz do Arelho and Peniche are good beach bases.

Why stay the night

Óbidos is small. You can walk the length of the main street, Rua Direita, in about ten minutes. By day it fills with coach groups from Lisbon. In the early morning and evening it empties, and you can walk the top of the walls, see the whitewashed houses with their blue and yellow trim, and have a glass of ginja in peace. A night here also makes a good base for the Silver Coast, Nazaré, Alcobaça and Batalha.

Inside the walls

This is the place to be if you want the atmosphere. Expect small, characterful rooms in old stone houses, steep cobbled lanes and no traffic. It suits couples and anyone on a short stay. It is less good for families with buggies or anyone who struggles with steps.

• Pousada Castelo Óbidos: stay in the medieval castle itself (or the house next to it). One of Portugal’s most special hotels. See the best pousadas in Portugal.
• Casa das Senhoras Rainhas: a boutique hotel within the walls.
• Guesthouses in restored village houses. Browse Óbidos stays.

Tip: you can’t drive inside the walls; use the car parks outside and walk in with light luggage.

Just outside the walls

The streets below the walls, towards the aqueduct and the main car parks, have guesthouses, rural houses and small apartments. You are a five to ten minute walk from the main gate, Porta da Vila, with easier parking and often lower prices. This suits families and anyone with a car and bigger bags.

Nearby

• Evolutee Hotel at Royal Óbidos: a five-star golf and spa resort near the coast, about 15 minutes away. Good for golfers and couples who want a pool and a spa.
• Foz do Arelho: where the Óbidos lagoon meets the sea. Calm lagoon water for children, a big ocean beach and a relaxed feel. See Foz do Arelho.
• Peniche and Baleal: surf towns and boats to the Berlengas. Surf houses, apartments and simple hotels. Best for surfers and active travellers.
• Caldas da Rainha: a spa town with a daily fruit market. A real working town with good-value hotels and a train station.

Types of places to stay

• Historic hotels: the pousada and a few boutique hotels in old buildings. Book early.
• Guesthouses and rooms: family-run, often with breakfast. The most common choice inside the walls.
• Self-catering houses: whole village houses or apartments, handy for longer stays.
• Rural and resort stays: quintas and the golf resort in the countryside around the lagoon. You need a car.

Getting there

• By bus: the Rodotejo express bus (Rápida Verde) from Lisbon’s Campo Grande takes about an hour. On weekdays there is usually one an hour. It is the easiest option without a car.
• By train: Óbidos is on the slow, single-track Oeste line. There are only a few direct trains a day, taking two hours or more. The station is a 10 to 15 minute uphill walk from the gate.
• By car: about an hour from Lisbon on the A8. Park outside the walls.

When to stay

• Christmas: Óbidos Vila Natal, usually late November to early January.
• March: the International Chocolate Festival, usually over several weekends.
• July: the Medieval Market, usually over about ten days in the second half of the month.
• October: FOLIO, the international literary festival. Óbidos is a UNESCO City of Literature, and you will see bookshops in unexpected places, including a church.
• Book ahead for festival weekends. Dates change each year, so check the town’s official site.

Practical tips

• Pack light: lanes are steep, cobbled and slippery after rain. A small wheeled case or a backpack is best.
• Walk the walls at sunset. There are no railings in places, so take care with children.
• Try ginja: the local cherry liqueur, often served in a little chocolate cup.
• Eat outside the main street: look for grilled fish, roast meats and regional sweets. Pears from the Oeste region and seafood from Peniche are local favourites.

More: Óbidos, the Silver Coast and a romantic trip to Portugal.

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